Testovo’s Hidden Gem
Approximately 30 kilometres away from Kursk City Centre is the village of Testovo, which a very unique and shy infrastructure hidden from the internet paparazzi for over 200 years! Tserkov Nikolaya Chudotvortsa1 (Church of Nicholas the Wonderworker). It was built in 1827, even older than Pokrovskaya Church from Vinogrobl which was built in 1861.
The journey to this gem began when the Elektrichka from Kursk Vokzal that goes towards Kastornaya direction that left at 9am (60 rubles). We got down at the stop ’29 km’ and made our way through Senovoye village. Nothing much but tranquility of Russian nature accompanied by sweet aroma of some flowers while going through giant oak trees for some fresh cold oxygen. After crossing through the vast fields you will arrive at Novosergievka. Climb up the little hill and eventually you will reach Testovo village. The total duration on foot for 7 km was 90 minutes approximately.
It is almost impossible to miss the gem as its along the road and nothing else will capture your attention as you get close. As abandoned as it is, worshipers of nearby villagers often comes and place their own candles and continues to pray in the open air church. The priest who was going to restore the parish was forced to leave to another state. While we were there, dust could be seen collected near the altar, which means it has been quite some time since someone last came to clean it. Just enjoy the silence and echo that strongly resonates within the rubbles and walls of the church.
So now to go back Kursk, you can take the same route back and be at the train stop ‘29 km’ by 3:34pm to take the same train back. (60 rubles)
If you were satisfied with the church in Testovo you can return to 29km train stop, but if you enjoy a good dose of adrenaline rush like us then we recommend you another route that goes a little southwest. Check on google/yandex maps and take the correct street that leads towards Staraya Slobodka, pass the vast clean lake that was inhabited by a gaggle of geese, then to 2-e Pisklovo and further into Troitsa village.
The journey was almost an hour of walking 6.4km. Here you will encounter Tserkov Troitsy Zhivonachalnoy2 which used to be in a much worse condition but currently being restored. To be honest it was not very interesting but the historical events that happened there made it worth it.
It was a spiritual place for many villages in kilometers around. The history of the church began when a local female merchant called Gladchiha told her peasants “let’s build a church named after Saint Trinity. I will give the money and from you I only need your hands.” This is how the construction of the temple began in 1747.
Over time, the Trinity Church was also called “merchant”, because it was built on the money of local merchants, the maintenance of the temple and the entire village was arranged on the money of local landowners, who were essentially deeply religious people and did good deeds for their salvation.
Behind the altar of the Trinity Church, there are family crypts belonging to local landowners Vasiliev, who took care of the beauty of the temple, and the grave of Prince Dimitri Spazhinsky, who apparently also had a relationship to the temple and the spiritual development of the village, but this part of history was lost.
Eventually it was closed in 1937 and the Church was used as a grain mill after the second world war till 1990s. It was in ruins but the restoration process of the church has begun and now it is on its way to be a fully functioning house of God.
Back in 1647, the Crimean Tartars invaded Kursk and they managed to reach up to this region and destroyed the surroundings. In 1722 a wooden church was built and somewhere between 1781-1801 is when it was renovated into a brick based church. This info can be discovered on a Plaque that is hanging on the outer wall of the church.
So to head back to city center you must head West and find the super duper straight and long road that will later lead you to the Train station of Otreshkovo. A solid 7.4 km and at least 1 hour 40 minutes of walking through sunflower fields, wheat fields, empty lands and luscious green grass.
The only problem we faced is the fact that we need to reach the station by 3:42pm and there are no other trains that will stop there3. Through the hot summer heat and our feet almost melting, we even had to jog a little in our jeans to reach the train station in time! It is difficult to express the intensity we have been through, and the only way you will feel it is if you walk our path too ;)
Good luck and stay curious!
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Great writing! Almost felt as if I was with you exploring the summer russian countryside! (apart from having my feet metled walking 7.4 kms haha, thanks for your efforts!)
Best regards!